Pizza in Transit
Part I: Casa Pizza

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Marseille / Place

“Please allow me to invite you. I don’t have the means for a proper dinner. But I could treat you to a glass of rosé and a slice of pizza. Come sit with me! What would you rather see? How they bake pizza on the open fire? Then sit right next to me. The old port? Then you should sit opposite me instead. From here you’ll be able to see the sun go down behind Fort Saint-Nicolas. I’m sure that won’t bore you.”

Anna Seghers, Transit

Anna Seghers’ 1944 novel Transit begins with bad news. On the run from a Nazi concentration camp, the protagonist reaches the port of Marseille. Here, he’s greeted by the rumor of a ship named “Montreal” having hit a naval mine and sunk with refugees on board. Any hope of leaving a continent drowning in fascism seems dashed from the start. And the reader is led to believe that instead of Transit, a more fitting title for this novel may have been Terminus.

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Vignettes des Vestiges
Part II: Joseph Roth (c)

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Place
warehouse or arsenal

In this age of digital nomadism, we often forget how intense and ambiguous the relationships can be that humans entertain with geographic places. Some places attract us, others reject us. Some entice us, others bore us to death. Some places poison us, others intoxicate us only to eat us alive. In the same way as places are haunted by people and their afterlife specters, places can haunt us in return. They lure us to always sink back anew into their sweet yet suffocating embrace.

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Vignettes des Vestiges
Part I: Joseph Roth (a)

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Place
Hôtel Beauvau

When I visited Marseille for the first time, I already knew that some of my favorite authors had been here before me. The writer and journalist Joseph Roth, for instance. I had a vague notion of him sitting in the lobby of some grand hotel by the Old Port writing his articles for the Frankfurter Zeitung. Or did he actually come to Marseille seeking shelter from the Nazis, to be right at the port and out of Europe as soon as another World War would erupt? As I knew, Roth foresaw the imminent atrocities much earlier than most of his intellectual contemporaries.

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“Law of the Border”

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Review
Tracing the Border

Lütfi Ö. Akad’s film Law of the Border is a cinematic masterpiece that marked a pivotal point in Turkish cinema when it came out in 1966. Today, it appears as a brilliant reflection on the complexities of borders, unequal opportunities, and other limitations that define modern societies.

Borders are ambiguous phenomena. On the one hand, they are intended to be simplifying limitations, attempts at drawing clear lines through reality. On the other hand, they are limitless concatenations of complications: demarcation problems, territorial conflicts, stories of tragic separation, illegal crossings, fatal casualties.

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State of the Nation-State

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Contemplation
Nation-States

While global travel restrictions are currently changing daily, it’s time to reflect on borders and what lies between them—the nation-state. The Lithuanian poet and intellectual Tomas Venclova can provide some inspiring input for such reflections.

Countries across the globe have been slowly reopening their borders to travelers since the pandemic’s first wave has ebbed at least in some parts of the world. The reopening is very selective though, which is a reminder that the permeability of national borders is generally an extremely selective matter to most people, even in times of relative normality.

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“Roller Coaster”

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Review
Gap In Between

Here’s the truth: I’ve never been on a roller coaster. I’ve never taken LSD. I’ve never tried to step out of an elevator on the 13th floor. I’ve never been to Austin, Texas. And I’ve never written about music. Hence this is no reportage; I’m not a music journalist. I’m not a historian either—facts are important to me, but at times they seem fleeting. And yet, all of these things fascinate me, especially when they are combined in one story.

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The Power of Habits

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Contemplation
Coffee Filter

The year is not even half over, and there is no shortage of things I will always remember it for. If I were to give 2020 a title in my personal history book, though, I would call it the year when I learned to cherish and wield the power of habits.

Of course, habits have always been an important part of my life. Humans are creatures of habit; that’s a truism, and I’ve been aware of it for as long as I can remember. But honestly, I always viewed that habitual side of human existence as something boring, a quality that I would want to either ignore or minimize—if not overcome altogether. Instead, I have always been a great believer in conscious, planned action. The avid learner that I am, I placed my focus on two things: understanding by empathy or analysis, and practice by repetition. Habits, however, are an entirely different beast.

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“Simply the Other Side”

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Review

C/O Berlin shows “Francesca Woodman: On Being an Angel,” the first cross-section through the work of the great American photographer ever presented in Germany.

Right when it opened in March, I had the plan to go see the exhibition “On Being an Angel” at C/O Berlin. Then came the pandemic, and the sudden lockdown thwarted my plan.

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Serendipity and the Art of Tracking Down Stories, Camels, and Outbreaks

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Contemplation
Silk Road Traces

An age-old tale about three princes inspired modern science, the creation of the word serendipity, and a whole tradition of detective fiction. It seems equally inspiring today in the midst of a pandemic and a global crisis of knowledge and information.

While listening to a podcast covering the latest coronavirus news the other day it struck me how much research around the outbreak is informed by veritable detective work. The virus harms and kills people quite randomly, much like a serial offender—to track it down and ideally put a stop to its game, researchers are set to acquire an ever-clearer picture of the phantom they are looking for.

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